Papakupu kaiwhakatipu

Integrating trees with crops and sometimes livestock on the same land unit.

Agroforestry includes alley cropping, silvopasture, windbreaks, and home-scale food forests. Trees provide shade, timber, fruit, nitrogen, wind reduction, and carbon while annuals or animals produce between or beneath them.

E pā ana: Alley cropping, Food forest

Rows of trees with annual crops grown in the alleys between.

Alley cropping is farm-scale agroforestry: nut or timber rows spaced wide enough for tractor access or hand cultivation between. Tree roots and shade must be managed so alley crops still receive light and water.

E pā ana: Agroforestry, Windbreak / shelterbelt

Higher diversity and productivity where two ecosystems meet.

Forest edges, pond margins, and path borders often support more species than deep interior zones. Curved beds, keyhole paths, and pond shelves increase edge length for more planting niches in small gardens.

E pā ana: Polyculture, Food forest

Multilayer perennial polyculture mimicking forest ecology for food, fibre, and fodder.

A food forest stacks emergent trees, canopy, sub-canopy, shrubs, herbs, ground covers, roots, and climbers so multiple yields share one space. Unlike a timber plantation, species are chosen for human and pollinator value, with succession from pioneer to climax plantings over years.

E pā ana: Food forest layers, Guild, Syntropic agroforestry, Agroforestry, Canopy layer

Tirohia anō: Canopy visualiser

Contour-based land planning to spread rainwater evenly and reduce erosion.

Keyline uses land shape maps to place cultivation patterns and water lines that slow and spread flow. Often paired with swales and dams on sloping Bay of Plenty blocks. Professional survey helps on larger sites.

E pā ana: Swale, Rainwater harvesting

Large areas of one species or cultivar — efficient for mechanisation, fragile ecologically.

Monocultures simplify harvesting (orchards, grain) but increase pest pressure and soil exhaustion if not balanced with cover crops and diversity elsewhere. Home kai gardens usually benefit from mixing species even when one crop is dominant.

E pā ana: Polyculture, Integrated pest management (IPM)

Design system for sustainable human habitats — ethics, principles, and ecological patterns.

Permaculture combines permanent agriculture and permanent culture: caring for earth and people, fair share, and designing from patterns in nature (zones, sectors, stacking functions). In kai resilience work it guides water harvesting, polycultures, and low-input food systems suited to your site.

E pā ana: Food forest, Syntropic agroforestry, Zone planning (permaculture), Swale

Tirohia anō: Troppo quiz

Growing multiple species together instead of a single crop monoculture.

Polycultures spread risk: pest outbreaks, weather, and market shocks hit one crop less hard. Companion guilds, food forests, and mixed market gardens are polycultures. Design considers height, root depth, nutrient needs, and harvest timing.

E pā ana: Monoculture, Guild, Companion planting

Tirohia anō: Companion planting matrix

Farming that restores soil, water cycles, biodiversity, and community resilience.

Regenerative practice minimises tillage, keeps soil covered, maintains living roots, integrates animals where appropriate, and values diverse polycultures. Outcomes include better water infiltration, lower input costs, and kai systems that improve over time rather than mining soil.

E pā ana: Cover crop / green manure, No-dig gardening, Soil food web

Tirohia anō: RegenOS

High-density successional planting with chop-and-drop biomass — Ernst Götsch lineage.

Syntropic systems plant many species close together, prune aggressively, and leave biomass on the ground to build soil fast. The goal is accelerating forest succession while harvesting vegetables, fruit, and timber along the way. Common in subtropical demos; adapt spacing and species to Bay of Plenty and cooler NZ sites.

E pā ana: Chop and drop, Succession planting, Food forest, Agroforestry

Layout by how often you visit: herbs at the door (Z1), orchards farther out (Z3–Z4).

Zones Z0–Z5 arrange elements by maintenance frequency and energy use. Kitchen gardens and salad greens sit nearest the house; firewood and wild forage sit farther away. Good zone planning saves time and water in daily kai production.

E pā ana: Permaculture, Raised bed

Deep soil prep, compost, close spacing, and calorie/protein focus in small areas.

Biointensive double-digs (or builds) high-carbon soil, uses hexagonal spacing, and emphasises crops that produce both food and compost material. Demanding but productive on limited land.

E pā ana: Square foot gardening, Thermophilic compost

Low cover over rows for frost, pest, or humidity control.

Cloches range from plastic bottles to wire hoops with horticultural fleece. Raise airflow on warm days to prevent cooking seedlings. Fleece (+2–4°C) helps spring brassicas and lettuce.

E pā ana: Frost cloth / horticultural fleece, Season extension

Growing in pots, tubs, or grow bags when ground soil is unavailable or poor.

Containers need free drainage, quality potting mix, and more frequent feeding and watering than in-ground beds. Ideal for rentals, patios, and mobility. Size pots to mature root mass — tomatoes and kumara need large volumes.

E pā ana: Wicking bed, Raised bed

Breathable fabric row cover for light frost protection.

Fleece lets light and rain through while buffering temperature. Secure edges against wind. Remove when flowering if hand pollination or bee access is needed for fruit set.

E pā ana: Cloche, Season extension

Enclosed structure for season extension, frost protection, and humidity control.

Glazing traps heat and blocks wind. Ventilation prevents overheating and disease. Use for seed raising, tomatoes, cucumbers, and subtropical trials. Shade paint or cloth needed in peak Bay of Plenty summer.

E pā ana: Hoop house / polytunnel, Season extension, Microclimate

Arched frame with plastic skin — cheaper season extension than glass.

Polytunnels warm soil and protect from wind and light frost. Roll-up sides manage heat. UV-stable plastic lasts several seasons. Not hurricane-proof — site and anchor for local wind.

E pā ana: Greenhouse / glasshouse, Cloche, Season extension

Raised mound built over decaying logs — stores water and feeds fungi.

Buried or mounded wood acts like a sponge, releasing moisture in dry spells and hosting beneficial fungi. Beds settle over years as wood rots. Use untreated logs; avoid allelopathic species (fresh walnut). Best for perennial plantings on sloping sites.

E pā ana: Raised bed, Mycorrhiza

Layered cardboard, compost, and organic matter to smother weeds and build soil.

Start with cardboard over grass, alternate brown (carbon) and green (nitrogen) layers, top with compost and mulch. Leave to settle before planting, or punch holes for seedlings. Excellent for converting lawn to kai beds without digging.

E pā ana: No-dig gardening, Mulch

Building fertility on the soil surface without turning or tilling.

No-dig preserves fungal networks and structure. Add compost and mulch on top; plant through mulch into soil below. Charles Dowding popularised the method for market gardens; it suits home kai beds and raised boxes alike.

E pā ana: Lasagne gardening, Mulch, Raised bed

Growing area built above ground in a framed box — better drainage and ergonomics.

Raised beds lift root zones above poor or compacted soil, warm faster in spring, and reduce bending. Fill with imported mix or lasagne layers. Use food-safe timber or steel; avoid treated pine in direct contact with edible roots unless rated for food gardens.

E pā ana: No-dig gardening, Wicking bed, Hugelkultur

Techniques to grow outside the normal frost-free window.

Combine cloches, tunnels, wall-o-water, and variety choice (fast-maturing cultivars) to stretch spring and autumn harvests. Microclimate matters: south-facing walls and thermal mass add frost-free days.

E pā ana: Greenhouse / glasshouse, Microclimate, Cloche

Intensive grid spacing in small raised beds for high salad and herb output.

A 1×1 m grid divides beds into squares with prescribed plant counts per square. Maximises yield in tiny spaces; less suited to large sprawlers like pumpkins unless given multiple squares.

E pā ana: Raised bed, Biointensive gardening

Self-watering bed with a reservoir below that wicks moisture up to roots.

A waterproof liner creates a water storage zone under soil, separated by geotextile. Fill pipe or overflow sets max level. Wicking reduces daily watering and suits hot decks and community gardens. Monitor salinity if topping up with chlorinated town water long term.

E pā ana: Capillary action / wicking, Container gardening, Raised bed

Roots suspended in air and misted with fine nutrient spray.

High oxygen at roots can accelerate growth but nozzles clog and pumps must not fail. Research and propagation setups use aeroponics; home growers often prefer DWC or NFT for reliability.

E pā ana: Hydroponics, Dissolved oxygen (DO)

Creates fine bubbles to raise dissolved oxygen in hydro reservoirs.

Pair with adequately sized air pump for reservoir volume. Clean stones between cycles; biofilm clogs pores. Essential for DWC and recommended for RDWC reservoirs.

E pā ana: Dissolved oxygen (DO), DWC (deep water culture), Root rot / Pythium

Fish waste feeds hydroponic plants; plants filter water for fish.

Bacteria convert ammonia to nitrates plants use. Balancing fish stocking, feed rate, and plant uptake takes monitoring. Power backup critical for fish oxygen. Regulations apply to fish species and discharge in NZ.

E pā ana: Hydroponics, Nutrient solution, NZ water use & greywater rules

Lightweight expanded clay balls — reusable hydro medium with high aeration.

LECA suits ebb-and-flow and Dutch buckets. Rinse dust before use. Reusable after sterilising between crops. Heavy compared to coco — secure pots in windy tunnels.

E pā ana: Ebb and flow, Perlite

Coconut husk fibre medium — renewable, buffers well in hydro and pots.

Rinse low-quality bricks to reduce salt. Coco can be run-to-waste or recirculating with attention to calcium/magnesium. Blends with perlite improve drainage.

E pā ana: Perlite, Run-to-waste, Hydroponics

Roots suspended in a oxygenated nutrient reservoir.

Plants sit in net pots with roots dangling in aerated solution. An air pump and air stone are essential — roots drown without dissolved oxygen. Simple DIY setup: bucket, lid, air pump, nutrients. Popular for lettuce, basil, and cannabis where legal.

E pā ana: RDWC (recirculating deep water culture), Dissolved oxygen (DO), Air stone / diffuser, Root rot / Pythium, Hydroponics

Tray periodically floods with nutrient solution then drains back to reservoir.

Timer-controlled pump fills a grow tray; siphon or pump drains it, pulling fresh oxygen into the medium. Works with clay pebbles or coco. Timer failure can leave plants dry or waterlogged — use reliable timers and overflow protection.

E pā ana: Hydroponics, Clay pebbles (LECA), Recirculating hydroponics

Soilless growing with dissolved mineral nutrients in water.

Roots receive water, oxygen, and nutrients directly — no soil. Systems range from passive Kratky jars to recirculating RDWC. Requires monitoring pH and EC, clean reservoirs, and adequate light. Excellent for leafy greens, herbs, and controlled environments.

E pā ana: DWC (deep water culture), RDWC (recirculating deep water culture), NFT (nutrient film technique), Nutrient solution, pH

Passive non-circulating hydro — static reservoir lowers as plants drink.

No pump: roots access solution and an air gap develops as water level drops, supplying oxygen. One-shot per crop cycle — refill only between plantings. Simple windowsill lettuce; not ideal for long-season heavy feeders without topping up.

E pā ana: Passive hydroponics, DWC (deep water culture), Hydroponics

Thin film of nutrient solution flows through sloped channels past roots.

A constant shallow flow keeps roots wet and oxygenated at the crown. Power failure risks roots drying in minutes — backup or shallow DWC may be safer for beginners. Common in commercial lettuce lines.

E pā ana: Hydroponics, Recirculating hydroponics, Nutrient solution

Water plus dissolved mineral salts formulated for plant growth stages.

Commercial A/B parts or single-part mixes provide nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients. Mix to target EC; adjust pH after mixing. Different ratios for vegetative vs fruiting stages.

E pā ana: EC (electrical conductivity), pH, PPM / TDS, Hydroponics

Soilless growing without pumps — Kratky, some wicking setups.

Lower cost and complexity than recirculating systems. Trade-off: less control and smaller scale. Good entry point before investing in RDWC or NFT.

E pā ana: Kratky method, Wicking bed

Expanded volcanic glass for drainage in mixes and hydro.

Perlite aerates potting mix and can top-dress seedlings. Dust is irritating — dampen when handling. Does not hold nutrients alone; pair with coco or compost.

E pā ana: Coco coir / cocopeat, Clay pebbles (LECA)

Multiple DWC sites linked to one central reservoir.

A pump circulates nutrient solution between plant buckets and a control reservoir, evening out pH and EC. Easier to manage one tank than many individual buckets. Still requires strong aeration and periodic reservoir changes.

E pā ana: DWC (deep water culture), Recirculating hydroponics, Nutrient solution, EC (electrical conductivity)

Nutrient solution pumped from reservoir through the system and returned.

RDWC, NFT, and ebb-and-flow are recirculating. Monitor EC drift and biofilm; change solution on a schedule. Sterile starts reduce pythium risk.

E pā ana: RDWC (recirculating deep water culture), NFT (nutrient film technique), Ebb and flow, Run-to-waste

Spun mineral fibre grow medium — common for propagation and NFT.

Rockwool holds water and air well; pre-soak and pH-condition before use. Dispose responsibly — not compostable. Handle dry fibres with care (irritant).

E pā ana: Coco coir / cocopeat, Clay pebbles (LECA), Perlite

Water mould causing brown, slimy roots in warm, low-oxygen hydro.

Prevention: strong aeration, reservoir temperature under ~22°C where possible, sterile media, remove dead plant material. Infected plants rarely recover — discard roots and sterilise system.

E pā ana: Dissolved oxygen (DO), DWC (deep water culture), Air stone / diffuser

Volume of medium or solution where roots actively grow and uptake occurs.

Temperature, oxygen, pH, and EC in the root zone matter more than ambient air for growth rate. Insulate reservoirs in heat waves; warm roots above 26°C increase disease risk in hydro.

E pā ana: Dissolved oxygen (DO), Root rot / Pythium, pH

Spent nutrient solution is not returned to the reservoir.

Common in coco and some drip hydro: fresh solution each irrigation, runoff discarded. Prevents salt buildup in reservoir but uses more water and nutrients. Plan disposal away from streams.

E pā ana: Drip irrigation, Coco coir / cocopeat

Water moves through porous media against gravity.

Wicking beds and mat watering use capillarity to keep soil moist from below, reducing surface evaporation. Medium must stay connected to water source — air gaps break the wick.

E pā ana: Wicking bed, Passive hydroponics

Slow, targeted water delivery at soil or pot level.

Emitters reduce evaporation and leaf disease vs overhead sprinklers. Filtration prevents clogging. Automate with timers; match flow to soil infiltration rate. Also used in hydro run-to-waste.

E pā ana: Run-to-waste, Olla irrigation

Household wastewater from baths, showers, and laundry — regulated reuse.

NZ rules vary by council: treatment, subsurface irrigation, and product choice (low salt, low boron detergents) matter. Never use greywater on leafy salads without approved systems. Blackwater (toilet) is not greywater.

E pā ana: Drip irrigation, NZ water use & greywater rules

Shallow depression mulched around trees to hold irrigation and rain.

Basins focus water at the root crown of young trees in dry sites. Refresh mulch as it decomposes. Common in permaculture orchard establishment.

E pā ana: Mulch, Swale

Unglazed clay pot buried for slow seep irrigation.

Fill porous pots; water oozes to surrounding roots over days. Ancient technique suited to dry summers and container clusters. Cover lids to reduce evaporation and mosquito breeding.

E pā ana: Drip irrigation, Capillary action / wicking

Collecting roof runoff into tanks for irrigation.

First-flush diverters improve water quality. Size tanks for dry spells; mesh keeps mosquitoes out. Check local tank and building rules. Slightly acidic rain is fine for most gardens; monitor pH for hydro.

E pā ana: Swale, Drip irrigation

On-contour ditch and berm to slow and infiltrate overland flow.

Swales passively harvest rain on slopes, feeding trees on the berm. Not a sealed pond — water should infiltrate. Wrong placement on steep or unstable slopes can cause slips; get advice on heavy clay hillsides.

E pā ana: Keyline design, Rainwater harvesting

Charcoal soil amendment improving water holding and habitat for microbes.

Charge biochar with compost tea or nutrients before applying — raw char can initially tie up nitrogen. Long-lived carbon in soil. Make or buy from reputable sources; avoid contaminated feedstock.

E pā ana: Soil food web, Compost

Fermented kitchen waste inoculated with effective microorganisms.

Anaerobic fermentation in a sealed bucket precedes burial in soil or addition to compost. Handles meat and dairy better than aerobic compost. Pre-compost stage — must finish breaking down in soil.

E pā ana: Compost, Effective microorganisms (EM)

Pruning vegetation and leaving cuttings on the ground as mulch.

Core syntropic and food forest maintenance: biomass returns minerals and protects soil. Use disease-free material; avoid spreading infected leaves. Dynamic accumulators (comfrey, yarrow) concentrate nutrients.

E pā ana: Syntropic agroforestry, Mulch, Cover crop / green manure

Decomposed organic matter improving soil structure and nutrient cycling.

Aim for carbon:nitrogen balance, moisture like a wrung sponge, and aeration. Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling. Feed beds annually; weaker compost can be used as mulch while it finishes.

E pā ana: Thermophilic compost, Vermicompost, Bokashi, Soil food web

Plants grown to protect and build soil, then cut or dug in.

Legumes fix nitrogen; grasses add biomass. Mow before seed set unless you want self-sowing. Mustard and lupins used between kai rotations; chop and drop or lightly incorporate.

E pā ana: Nitrogen fixation, Chop and drop

Cultured microbe consortium used in bokashi and soil sprays.

Commercial EM products inoculate fermentation buckets and can speed compost. Not a substitute for organic matter — pair with mulch and cover crops.

E pā ana: Bokashi, Soil food web

Low ground-cover plants suppressing weeds and protecting soil.

Clover, nasturtium, or sweet potato vine cover bare soil. Must compete lightly with main crop — choose low, shallow-rooted species under fruit trees.

E pā ana: Cover crop / green manure, Mulch

Protective surface layer reducing evaporation, weeds, and erosion.

Wood chip, straw, leaf litter, and living ground covers are mulches. Keep mulch away from trunks to avoid collar rot. As mulch breaks down it feeds soil — replenish seasonally.

E pā ana: Living mulch, Chop and drop, No-dig gardening

Symbiotic fungi extending root nutrient and water uptake.

Many fruit trees and perennials benefit from fungal networks. Avoid broad-spectrum fungicides in soil. Wood chip mulch and undisturbed edges encourage mycelium.

E pā ana: Soil food web, Hugelkultur

Legumes and symbiotic bacteria convert atmospheric N₂ to plant-available nitrogen.

Lupins, clover, beans, and tagasaste support Rhizobium nodules on roots. Chop and drop or compost legume biomass to share nitrogen with neighbours in polycultures.

E pā ana: Cover crop / green manure, Guild

Community of bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and invertebrates cycling nutrients.

Healthy soil biology unlocks minerals, builds structure, and suppresses some diseases. Minimise tillage, keep roots in ground, and add diverse organic inputs to feed the web.

E pā ana: Mycorrhiza, Vermicompost, No-dig gardening

Aerobic pile reaching 55–65°C to kill weed seeds and pathogens.

Turn when temperature peaks and starts to fall. Needs sufficient mass, nitrogen, and moisture. Bay of Plenty humidity helps; cover in torrential rain to avoid waterlogging.

E pā ana: Compost, Vermicompost

Compost produced with earthworms — rich biology and nutrients.

Tiger worms process kitchen scraps and paper in bins or worm towers. Castings are mild fertiliser and inoculant. Drain leachate sparingly — dilute before use. Keep bin moist and shaded in summer heat.

E pā ana: Compost, Soil food web

Upper tree stratum defining shade and rainfall pattern for the system.

Large fruit or nut trees form canopy. Spacing sets long-term light — plan for mature spread, not nursery pot size. Underplant with shade-tolerant species as canopy closes.

E pā ana: Understory, Food forest layers

Placing plants together for pest, pollinator, or growth benefits.

Examples: basil near tomato, marigold in vegetable rows, tall crops shading lettuce. Evidence varies — combine with IPM and observation. Avoid allelopathic pairings (onion/garlic vs peas in tight rotation).

E pā ana: Guild, Trap crop, Polyculture

Tirohia anō: Companion planting matrix

Staggering sowings for year-round kai instead of one glut.

Plan small batches every 2–3 weeks for salad, beans, and coriander. Match varieties to season length. Record what worked — local frost dates shift microclimate timing.

E pā ana: Succession planting, Season extension

Tirohia anō: Continuous harvests

Vertical strata: emergent, canopy, sub-canopy, shrub, herb, ground, root, vine.

Each layer captures different light and niche. Not every layer is mandatory on small sites — prioritise canopy, shrub, and ground cover for quick returns. Plan access paths before planting dense understory.

E pā ana: Food forest, Canopy layer, Understory

Tirohia anō: Canopy visualiser

UK/European term for multilayer perennial food systems — close to food forest.

Robert Hart and others popularised temperate forest gardens. Same principles as food forests: layers, perennials, minimal till. NZ adaptations use subtropical and Mediterranean species by region.

E pā ana: Food forest, Permaculture

Polyculture group centred on a main plant with supportive species.

A fruit tree guild might include nitrogen fixers, insectary flowers, suppressors, and accumulators. Design for light, root depth, and water needs. Guilds evolve — replace fillers as canopy closes.

E pā ana: Companion planting, Food forest, Polyculture

Tirohia anō: Companion planting matrix

Timed sowing to replace harvested crops or stagger maturity.

Sow beans after peas, follow lettuce with autumn brassicas. In forests, pioneers (fast growers) nurse climax species. Troppo continuous harvest planner helps schedule gaps.

E pā ana: Continuous harvest planning, Syntropic agroforestry

Tirohia anō: Continuous harvests

Plants growing beneath the main canopy layer.

Berries, shade-tolerant herbs, and fungal logs live in understory. Light competition intensifies as canopy grows — prune for airflow and ripening.

E pā ana: Canopy layer, Food forest

Predators and pollinators supporting IPM — lacewings, ladybirds, parasitic wasps.

Flower strips, undisturbed hedges, and avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides protect beneficials. Release purchased predators only with habitat — otherwise they leave.

E pā ana: Integrated pest management (IPM), Companion planting

Combined cultural, biological, mechanical, and least-toxic control.

Start with healthy soil, resistant varieties, and observation. Hand-pick, trap, encourage predators, then spot-treat with approved products. Never routine spray — targets and thresholds guide action.

E pā ana: Beneficial insects, Trap crop, Polyculture

Sacrificial plants drawing pests away from the main crop.

Nasturtium for aphids, blue hubbard for cucumber beetle (overseas examples). Must destroy or remove infested trap plants before pests spread. One tool in IPM, not sole solution.

E pā ana: Integrated pest management (IPM), Companion planting

Linear tree or shrub planting reducing wind speed for crop protection.

Filter wind, not block it completely — permeable belts avoid turbulence. Protect young kai, reduce evaporation, and shelter beehives. Tagasaste and flax useful in NZ mixed belts.

E pā ana: Microclimate, Alley cropping

Oxygen available in water — critical for healthy hydroponic roots.

Warm water holds less oxygen. Aeration, cooler reservoirs, and healthy root mass maintain DO. Low DO plus warmth invites pythium.

E pā ana: Air stone / diffuser, DWC (deep water culture), Root rot / Pythium

Total photosynthetic light received per day — mol/m²/d.

DLI combines intensity and photoperiod. Short winter days limit growth even in greenhouses — supplemental light raises DLI. Track for indoor hydro salad production.

E pā ana: PPFD, Greenhouse / glasshouse

Measure of dissolved salts/nutrients in solution — hydro feeding guide.

EC rises as nutrients concentrate; falls as plants uptake or rain dilutes. Target EC depends on crop stage and climate. Convert to ppm using meter factor (500 or 700 scale — know your device).

E pā ana: PPM / TDS, Nutrient solution, pH

Local conditions differing from regional weather — frost pockets, heat walls.

Slope, aspect, buildings, and water bodies shift frost dates and wind. Map your site before planting tender subtropicals. Bay of Plenty has many frost-free pockets but cold air drains to valleys.

E pā ana: Windbreak / shelterbelt, Season extension, Greenhouse / glasshouse

Acidity/alkalinity scale affecting nutrient availability in soil and hydro.

Most vegetables prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0–7.0). Hydro lettuce often 5.5–6.5. Test soil with kits or lab; hydro with meter calibrated regularly. Lime raises soil pH; sulfur lowers.

E pā ana: EC (electrical conductivity), Nutrient solution

Useful light for photosynthesis — µmol/m²/s at canopy level.

Grow lights and greenhouse design use PPFD targets per crop. Full sun outdoors can exceed 1500 µmol; lettuce indoors may target 200–300. Distance and lens affect spread.

E pā ana: DLI (daily light integral), Greenhouse / glasshouse

Common display unit for hydro nutrient strength — derived from EC.

PPM is calculated from EC, not a separate measurement. Meters may use 500 or 700 conversion factors — compare readings only on same meter. Seedlings need lower ppm than mature fruiting plants.

E pā ana: EC (electrical conductivity), Nutrient solution

Community and household capacity to grow, share, and access nourishing food.

Kai resilience spans home gardens, food forests, marae gardens, food hubs, and skills networks. Food Resilience School teaches practices; Kai Resilience directory lists local growers and events across Aotearoa.

E pā ana: Food forest, Permaculture

Tirohia anō: Kai Resilience, Food Forests NZ

Staple Māori and Pacific crop — warm soil, long frost-free season.

Plant slips after last frost in loose, well-drained soil. Mounds improve drainage in heavy clay. Harvest before first frost; cure tubers for storage. Traditional varieties carry cultural significance — learn local tikanga where sharing.

E pā ana: Raised bed, Season extension, Microclimate

Council and national rules for tanks, irrigation, and wastewater reuse.

Resource consent may apply to large takes from streams. Greywater systems must meet building and public health requirements — design approved systems, not ad-hoc hose from laundry. Rain tanks often need backflow protection if connected to plumbing.

E pā ana: Greywater, Rainwater harvesting

Traditional Māori medicine plants — harvest and use with cultural respect.

Many kai gardens include karanga plants (kawakawa, harakeke) for ecological and cultural value. Rongoā is taonga practice — not generic herbalism. Learn from local kaumātua and accredited practitioners; do not commercialise without guidance.

E pā ana: Food forest, Polyculture